System

Emma’s work explored fabric manipulation through laser cut pattern; layering and bonding different materials to build flexible, three-dimensional structures. Her extensive body of samples demonstrated a breadth of scale and weight, resulting in an imaginative collection of textiles expressing a variety of movement and form. Emma’s investigations explored a broad range of design applications, from sculptural body pieces to aerodynamic ‘skins’ for the automotive industry. Her most recent work re-introduced drawing and its potential to contrast mechanical structure with gestural mark-making, bringing new energy and creative direction to the project.

Classification of Refugees

Chloe’s project was stimulated by her engagement with community arts. Creative dialogue with refugees and asylum seekers had generated ideas for printed and stitched products. A collection of bags, birds and creatures incorporated imagery that reflected the origins and memories of individuals in the group. Items were designed to be interactive, and an animated film supported this element, describing the cutting and making of cloth kits, and promoting the potential of the design collection as a sustainable project in the longer term. The work explores the commemoration of refugees, through mapping journeys, documenting narratives and classifying data.

Braids under Construction

Emma’s stitched, printed and braided textiles referenced the political banners associated with British social history, and archival photographs had been used to generate large-scale ideas and explorations. In contrast, a recent intervention with the Whitworth Museum had triggered a smaller commission piece - a compelling response to its collection of ancient Egyptian textiles. A child’s garment was re-interpreted to reflect the ‘life’ in hidden objects, attempting to re-connect a fragment with its past. Intervention with museums and their audiences was considered a significant element of this project and its development in the future.

Patterned Fruits

Hannah’s project demonstrated a clear commitment to drawing and observation. A rich body of studies in ink had informed her design collection. Qualities of line and mark had been carefully reproduced in silk-screen and skillfully manipulated in pattern and repeat. This resulted in a strong collection of printed textiles that resonated vibrant colour in a variety of scale and composition. The illustrative qualities in Hannah’s work suggested potential for a breadth of contemporary contexts, spanning scarves and accessories, wallpapers and interiors, and book arts. .

Unveiling Hidden Beauty

Emily’s woven textiles were developed from a series of observations, researching the delicate pattern and structure of fungi. Watercolour studies were translated into a collection of textile strips and panels incorporating folds and pleats. Particular attention had been paid to the flow of dark, rippled edges, graduated colour and tone, and the weight and density of different fibres. High twist silk and wool yarns had been sampled on triple warps to create rhythm and movement. The potential for these translucent textiles will be explored as collars, ruffs and wrappings for the body.

Indigo Crescents: a knitwear collection which re-imagines ideas of tribal ceremonial dress

Miriam’s project was inspired by the extreme head-dresses of Chinese minority cultures, exploring shaped and cut ‘horn’ pieces within knitted structures. These had developed from sculptural body pieces, through to three-dimensional inserts fully integrated within garment sections. Exploratory samples investigated the technical challenge in balancing the rigidity of cut shapes with the flexibility of knit, considering how this could be creatively exploited to add weight and form to a garment. This was supported by a collection of fashion illustrations communicating a breadth of ideas.

Mapping Ackworth School

Hannah has collected narratives of attendances at the school, and then recorded these memories by stitching them in black and white into cloth, in much the same way that an archaeologist would chart and layer site excavations on paper. The purpose of archaeology is understood as the study of past societies and human development, and thus the judges made connections with the work of textile conservators, historians and makers, to recognise that Hannah is contributing to social and historic record by enabling memories ‘to speak for themselves’ through the use of thread and stitch.

21st Century Weaving

Exploration into the use of unconventional textiles for artistic Intent

Proposal for Studying an MA in Fine Art

The judges thought the context for her work was extremely well articulated, belying the concept of dyslexia and its associated problems. Alison develops textile as a metaphorical vehicle to convey and translate the difficulties with visual communication, offering an alternative visual language. Her work is refreshingly honest and innovative, supported by a depth and breadth of research. It offers the viewer an opportunity to consider the impact of words, but in addition the intelligent play on narrative offers a diversity of perceived outcomes.

Geometries of Light

Assemblage

Traditional ajrakh block printing

Ruth Clifford’s paper showed the development of the traditional ajrakh block printing in India for contemporary markets. She used an anthropological approach to show how in a rapidly changing country, which is growing economically, the artisans were applying their craft. The judges were particularly impressed with her use of new primary sources, which she had gathered through going to India. Ruth’s findings also showed that because of improved educational facilities, the artisans were growing in confidence and producing new and exciting designs to suit the contemporary markets. The Textile Society Critical Writing Award will go towards further research in India allowing her to build a rich collection of data.

Engineered Flora

All three judges agreed that Lauren's designs have instant visual impact and they recognised links with the works of Paul Poiret, Sonia Delaunay, Raoul Dufy and also Kenzo and McQueen. In addition to her signature intricate decorative style and bold use of colour, Lauren is applying innovative garment engineering by placing her designs directly onto flat garment forms at the point of digital printing; the forms can then be cut out and constructed with just a few simple seams. She is also exploring ways to apply digitally printed fabric onto secondary materials such as neoprene, in order to extend the qualities of the digital print process. She plans to use the bursary to purchase materials for her final project at the RCA; these will enrich her creative repertoire by allowing more scope for experimentation.

Fashion as a Canvas

Ye Li describes textile as a link between fine art and decoration. She has been looking at the work of artists such as David Hockney, Henri Matisse and Patrick Caulfield to help inspire her own approach to printed textiles and fashion clothing design, and to aid her contextualisation of 'fashion as a canvas'. Her prints are vigorous and energetic, like paintings. For the garment silhouette, she is using origami forms, and will mount printed silks onto Staflex to create folding and volume. The bursary will support the costs of materials for her final MA project

Conversations

In selecting the winner for the BA Bursary, the judges were impressed by the depth of original research, and the exploration of traditional processes of drawing, painting, and stitch, within a contemporary translation and innovative application of screen and digital print. The value of recyclingis explored as process within a well contextualised theme referencing social interaction. The work crosses the boundaries of art, textile, craft and design, and the combination of hand crafted and digitally produced imagery embraces a future ethos that recognises the values and importance of tradition and technology. Gwyneth has produced a unique series of conversational pieces that have a universal appeal, and would happily translate within an art or design context. She will use the bursary to enable further research, and to purchase materials and equipment for the final degree show.