Gwyneth Depport, winner 2011 Undergraduate Award

The Textile Society Student Bursary Winners

2016

Postgraduate Student Award

Lorna Jewitt

Leeds College of Art

Lorna Jewitt work

The idea of the lost, forgotten, hidden or anonymous, is central to Lorna's work and continues through her current work inspired by the collection held at Sunny Bank Mills Archive. She has focussed on the stuff that is not, or cannot be saved. Intrigued by the meticulous way so much is being so carefully catalogued and preserved, she is exploring the possibilities of using some of that detritus.

Lorna's work combines print with applique and embroidery, along with other materials to create tactile surfaces that directly reference the history of the mill. She hopes to pursue her interest in archives and museum collections as sources of inspiration. The award will help with material costs for her final M.A. show.

Postgraduate Award

Anna Duthie

Royal College of Art

anna.duthie@network.rca.ac.uk

 Anna Duthie work

Anna’s work focuses on creating luxury fashion textiles that blur the boundaries between print and embroidery, and between surface and structure, creating tactile surface manipulations. Her final MA project takes inspiration from the construction of wartime camouflage nets and a collection of personal photographs that explore distorted linear qualities, considering the themes of layering, concealing and revealing, light and shadow. Experimenting with processes that add and subtract from the surface of a fabric, such as devore, bonding and pigment resist printing, the samples explore the ideas of printed embellishments and print as the structural element of a textile.

Anna plans to use the bursary to support the cost of large final samples and garments, particularly high quality fabrics, yarns and printing costs.

Postgraduate Award

Sally Cooke

Leeds College of Art

sally@sallycooke.com

sallycooke.wordpress.com

 Green Collage by Sally Cooke

Edgelands

The aim of Sally's project is to develop placement prints for garments designed for home construction as the basis for a craft-based business. For this project she took inspiration from urban edgeland environments on the periphery of the city.

Digital technology is central to her production process, but Sally creative process is rooted in hand making and direct engagement with material reality. She has worked on the production of various test pieces to develop an understanding of the technology and its place in her on-going practice. This bursary will help her to develop fully resolved designs that can be market tested at full scale in flat pattern form.

Undergraduate Student Award

Antonio Castro

 Antonio Castro work

Antonio is very aware that the textile industry is one of the most polluting industries in the world. His project explored fabric that can serve the two gender markets: Menswear and Womenswear, in the hope of reducing any need to double up on fabric production. Working on monochrome, he was inspired by a similarity between oil spills and Victorian mourning.

The Bursary will help António develop his final collection, weaving large length of fabrics and sourcing different materials and yarns.

Undergraduate Student Award

Katy Welsh

Leeds College of Art

www.cargocollective.com/katywelsh

 Katy Welsh

The New Bohemia

Katy's project looks to the precedent set by The Bloomsbury Group and Omega Workshops as Bohemian designers and aims to create work which responds to the ideas they set out. She is developing a collection for the interiors market and wants to make pieces which are not disposable or trend led, which can evolve with the visual identity of a home and help to contribute to the move towards sustainable design

She will use the award money to support an internship in LA this Easter.

Undergraduate Student Award

Alice Richardson-Payne

Leeds College of Art

 Alice Richardson Payne

Architectural Futures

Alice is interested in digital technology, which she believes is the future of the printing industry. She further embraces new technologies through the use of laser cutting and futuristic fabrics. Her project took inspiration from contemporary architecture to produce a printed textile collection aimed at the high-end menswear market for 2017. The work shows the astonishing detail and quality that can be achieved by digital printing.

Alice's work is now entirely digital based, as she defiantly rejects any craft based aspects in the production process: even creating preliminary sketches and designs is achieved digitally. She plans to use her bursary award to further pursue her digital theory by experimenting with printing on substrates such as neoprene and analyzing the reactions.

Undergraduate Student Award

 Jemma Pratt

Jemma uses a combination of mixed media skills: CAD embroidery, Laser cutting and Screen/Digital Print as an addition to apply her Textiles for Fashion fabrics. She created her own embellishments on the Laser cutter with the use of the AUB Sonic Welder, to help her explore different surface qualities and materials to work with. High-end design company Jakob Sclaepfer inspired her way of working and her choice of innovative materials. The collection of samples comprised of rigid and fluid materials including shiny, matt, and metallic surfaces. This helped re-create her primary imagery of the reflective, transparent and distorted surfaces within X-ray vision and skeletal fish.

The bursary money that Jemma received from the Textile Society will help with the cost of developing her mixed media processes. Alongside this, it will help with the funding for a potential place at the New Designers exhibition in London, June 2016.

2015

Postgraduate Student Award

Rozanna Mai Walecki

Royal College of Art

rozanna.walecki@gmail.com

Rozanna Walecki samples

The Judges thought Rozanna Mai Walecki's personal expression was sustained from her initial studio pinboard through to the most recent collection of textiles. This was also reflected in her written proposal and one sensed a real artist behind the thinking and exploration. She is, she says, 'currently exploring the interaction between the human body and the environments that surround us. At present my final project explores how nature has the power to evolve, adapt and mutate. As well as investigating how we interact and engage with nature.'

Her vision for design incorporated a moody and sensitive translation into material, where a restricted palette allowed for exploration of rich surfaces and textural qualities without the distraction or clash of contrasting colours.

Rozanna intends to use her bursary to support the cost of sourcing high quality threads, fabrics and materials to be able to develop larger samples and garments for her final collection.

Postgraduate Runner Up

Rahel Pfrommer

Royal College of Art

rahel.pfrommer@network.rca.ac.uk

 Rahel Pfrommer

Driven and inspired by the line and thread Rahel investigates soft textiles properties in contrast to the hard, straight lines of metals. She discusses the evolution of textiles throughout all dimensions. From 1D to 2D where a point becomes a line, a thread or a trace, and then this line, thread or trace marks or becomes a plane itself which than can become a three-dimensional form. The point moves to a line and forms a surface, so it is a movement and growth- and both (lines and surfaces) can define the scope of inner and outer space. This makes a tight relation to the line and the surface which is revealed by the line. It can also be vague space which is blending existence and emptiness or transitional space.

Inspired by repetition found in our everyday life Rahel develops techniques to enable constructed textiles to hold free-standing three-dimensional forms.

Postgraduate Runner Up

Carol Sorhaindo

Leeds College of Art

www.carolsorhaindo.com

 Carol Sorhaindo - The Nature of Ruins

The Nature of Ruins

The creative focus of Carol's work is on natural dyes, botanical art and textile processes. Her project investigated two former industrial mill buildings in contrasting states of ruin and socio-geographical locations: Temple Mills in Leeds, a 19th century flax mill modelled on an ancient Egyptian Temple and Castle Bruce sugar plantation in Dominica, West Indies.

Through the mediums of botanical and earth pigments, botanical drawing and screen print processes on textiles, deconstruction processes of thread pulling and textile manipulation are being explored to create a series of large textile hangings for installation and final MA show.

Undergraduate Student Award Winner

Suzanna Kate James

Winchester School of Art

 Suzanna Kate James illustration

The Judges felt that Suzanna's application was particularly strong and well-constructed.

Her Knitwear project was carefully researched, which gave the project a solid contextual foundation and was underpinned with traditional techniques.

Her illustrations were unique and fresh, which alongside her photographic images, clearly defined her intentions for her final collection.

Using ethical and sustainable raw materials was a key concern and one that was strongly reinforced when talking to Suzanna at the Society's annual Antique Textile Fair in Manchester, where all finalists were invited to showcase their work.

Undergraduate Student Award Runner Up

 Kate Probert-Jones

Kate has explored how traditional crafts and digital technology can be combined to create printed textures as surface pattern design. She explored the effects of laser-engraving, screen-printing, wood-block and digital printing onto a variety of surfaces suc as wood, paper, fabric and acrylic.

Especially when looking at the complexity and beauty of traditional wood block prints by William Morris, this project has explored how technology can develop this practice by translating free hand illustration using a laser cutter to engrave wood blocks.

Kate will use the bursary to fund her final major project that continues to develop the techniques already explored while employing the values of traditional print. She has sourced materials such as cherry wood, bamboo and glass to laser engrave illustration onto saleable products.

Undergraduate Student Award Runner Up

Ruby Le Galle

Royal School Needlework

 Ruby Le Galle

Furoshiki Project

Ruby studied indigo dying and other traditional crfats in Japan. Her final project involved creating a number of ‘furoshiki’, Japanese fabric wraps used to carry everyday objects, using traditional techniques such as stenciling and resist dying as well as embroidery.

Despite the time spent creating them, these textiles are intended for daily use and are part of Ruby's exploration of our relationship with hand crafted materials and how we can appreciate them whilst utilizing them for something practical.

Undergraduate Student Award Runner Up

 Hannah Edmonds

Hannah has used her bursary towards purchasing new equipment to help document her experiences. It will allow her to travel to new places in order to get inspiration for more exciting textile designs.

2014

Postgraduate Student Award

Tara Osborough

In Search of British Wool

Tara is passionate about creating fabrics that are sourced from yarn produced in the UK and Ireland. She currently weaves on a 4 shaft countermarch loom using traditional structures like a twill or herringbone, which allow her to maximise the impact of hand painted warps and the subtle blending of colours. She aims to keep pushing the boundaries using traditional techniques with a modern twist as she believes this is what is wanted by the contemporary market.

She plans to use the bursary to support the making of a video that will show to others how she works, and raise awareness of the excellent natural and sustainable resources we have so close to home in Britain and Ireland. The judges were impressed by Tara's commitment and passion for her work and that her fabrics have a beauty and integrity that is derived from the colours and landscapes of her native Ireland.

Postgraduate Runner Up

Lida Marinkova

Royal College of Art

info@lidamarinkova.com

www.lidamarinkova.com

 Lida Marinkova

From Within

Lida is fascinated by the transformation of materials, challenging them to serve new and imaginative purposes. Heavily inspired by nature, Lida’s work explores organic forms inspired by landscapes and microstructures. She pushes the properties of glass, ceramic and acrylic to create structures resembling the qualities of cloth. It is her physical interaction with each material that lies at the core of her practice.

Having completed her undergraduate degree in fashion design, the body has long served as a reference point for Lida’s material explorations, creating sculptures for the body, and blurring the line between fashion and art.

Lida intends to use her bursary to create a site-responsive large-scale installation exploring light and space. She has begun several experiments with polymorph and glass, shaping and colouring the material to recreate landscape experienced during a recent research visit to Iceland.

Postgraduate Runner Up

Bonnie Craig

University of Central Lancashire

hellopatterns@gmail.com

www.behance.net/BonnieCraig

 Bonnie Craig, Patterns inspired by artwork and graffiti on the Berlin Wall digitally printed on silk

A Question of Balance

Bonnie is exploring the relationship between order and disorder in pattern. She aims to represent visually our need to find the ‘optimum' amount of order in chaos, and she looks at the way we measure things with patterns. During a recent research trip to Berlin she was fascinated by the vitality and gestural freedom of the artwork and graffiti displayed on the remaining section of the Berlin Wall at the East Side Gallery, and is developing pattern sequences from these images that use a combination of ordered and random placement. She plans to use the bursary to support future experimentation with large-scale printed work.

Undergraduate Student Award Joint Winner

Nina Hartell

Leeds College of Art

ninahartell.blogspot.co.uk

 Nina Hartell

Can Surface Pattern design be Minimalist?

Nina’s project is an investigation into Minimalism in the practice of surface pattern design. She works with a limited colour palette derived from linear drawings of structural shapes in architecture, focusing on materials rather than illustration, and exploring repetition and the use of industrial materials such as plastic and metal.

Nina prints white on white, black on black and incorporates transparent foil, flock and laser cutting to add new dimensions to the surface of her fabrics. She is particularly interested in the use of inherently coloured materials in Minimalist art, and her work explores these ideas in textiles by ‘inter-cutting’ contrasting materials, introducing coloured patinas and chemical processes through digital printing, screen printing with different binders, and bonding flexible copper onto cloth.

Nina intends to use her bursary to support the cost of copper and plastic, and other metals, fabrics and materials in the development of larger samples for her final collection.

Undergraduate Student Award Joint Winner

Claire Hunsinger

UCA Farnham

claire.hunsinger@googlemail.com

 Emily Ong

Keeping Warm

For her Major Project Claire is investigating thermal properties for interiors with a strong focus on developing double cloth as functional insulating material and using wool as insulating yarn. She is using stitching warps to create multiple layers of fabric. The cloth traps ‘dead air’ between the layers to make it as insulating as possible. Quilting the cloth creates another layer of pockets which capture air. Claire is designing for interiors for the high end market with a strong emphasis on energy efficiency and eco living especially in cold countries such as Russia and/ or Scandinavia. She wants to develop a single fabric with multiple warm layers which will create the same insulating qualities as thermal lining but will be composed of wool which has strong sustainable credentials.

For this purpose Claire plans on using her bursary to get her fabric tested for thermal heat retention in order to see how well her cloth retains warmth.

Undergraduate Student Award Joint Winner

Ayaka Sakurai

Central St Martins

 Miriam Griffiths

Glitching the Gender

2013

Postgraduate Student Award

Emma Sheldon

Royal College of Art

www.hannahrampley.com

 Red Squah detail

Patterned Fruits

Hannah’s project demonstrated a clear commitment to drawing and observation. A rich body of studies in ink had informed her design collection. Qualities of line and mark had been carefully reproduced in silk-screen and skillfully manipulated in pattern and repeat. This resulted in a strong collection of printed textiles that resonated vibrant colour in a variety of scale and composition. The illustrative qualities in Hannah’s work suggested potential for a breadth of contemporary contexts, spanning scarves and accessories, wallpapers and interiors, and book arts. .

Undergraduate Runner Up

Emily Ong

Chelsea College of Art and Design

 Emily Ong

Unveiling Hidden Beauty

Emily’s woven textiles were developed from a series of observations, researching the delicate pattern and structure of fungi. Watercolour studies were translated into a collection of textile strips and panels incorporating folds and pleats. Particular attention had been paid to the flow of dark, rippled edges, graduated colour and tone, and the weight and density of different fibres. High twist silk and wool yarns had been sampled on triple warps to create rhythm and movement. The potential for these translucent textiles will be explored as collars, ruffs and wrappings for the body.

Undergraduate Runner Up

Miriam Griffiths

London College of Fashion

www.miriamgriffiths.co.uk

 Miriam Griffiths

Indigo Crescents: a knitwear collection which re-imagines ideas of tribal ceremonial dress

Miriam’s project was inspired by the extreme head-dresses of Chinese minority cultures, exploring shaped and cut ‘horn’ pieces within knitted structures. These had developed from sculptural body pieces, through to three-dimensional inserts fully integrated within garment sections. Exploratory samples investigated the technical challenge in balancing the rigidity of cut shapes with the flexibility of knit, considering how this could be creatively exploited to add weight and form to a garment. This was supported by a collection of fashion illustrations communicating a breadth of ideas.

2012

Postgraduate Student Award

Hannah Leighton-Boyce

Manchester Met Uni

hannahleightonboyce@gmail.com

www.hannahleightonboyce.com

Hannah Leighton-Boyce

Mapping Ackworth School

Hannah has collected narratives of attendances at the school, and then recorded these memories by stitching them in black and white into cloth, in much the same way that an archaeologist would chart and layer site excavations on paper. The purpose of archaeology is understood as the study of past societies and human development, and thus the judges made connections with the work of textile conservators, historians and makers, to recognise that Hannah is contributing to social and historic record by enabling memories ‘to speak for themselves’ through the use of thread and stitch.

Postgraduate Runner Up

Louise Tucker

Chelsea College of the Arts

 Louise Tucker woven textiles

21st Century Weaving

Amy George

West Dean College

 Amy George

Exploration into the use of unconventional textiles for artistic Intent

Undergraduate Student Award

Alison Stewart

University of Chichester

as@alisonstewartartist.co.uk

www.alisonstewartartist.co.uk

 Alison Stewart - Mixed Identity, detail

Proposal for Studying an MA in Fine Art

The judges thought the context for her work was extremely well articulated, belying the concept of dyslexia and its associated problems. Alison develops textile as a metaphorical vehicle to convey and translate the difficulties with visual communication, offering an alternative visual language. Her work is refreshingly honest and innovative, supported by a depth and breadth of research. It offers the viewer an opportunity to consider the impact of words, but in addition the intelligent play on narrative offers a diversity of perceived outcomes.

Undergraduate Runners Up

Kathryn Beckett

Glasgow School of Art

 Kathy Beckett

Geometries of Light

Meg Held

Glasgow School of Art

 Meg Held - Assemblage

Assemblage

2011

Postgraduate Student Award

Lauren Barfoot

Royal College of Art

Indigo and madder ajrakh border

Engineered Flora

All three judges agreed that Lauren's designs have instant visual impact and they recognised links with the works of Paul Poiret, Sonia Delaunay, Raoul Dufy and also Kenzo and McQueen. In addition to her signature intricate decorative style and bold use of colour, Lauren is applying innovative garment engineering by placing her designs directly onto flat garment forms at the point of digital printing; the forms can then be cut out and constructed with just a few simple seams. She is also exploring ways to apply digitally printed fabric onto secondary materials such as neoprene, in order to extend the qualities of the digital print process. She plans to use the bursary to purchase materials for her final project at the RCA; these will enrich her creative repertoire by allowing more scope for experimentation.

Postgraduate Runner Up

Ye Li

Glasgow School of Art

 Ye Li

Fashion as a Canvas

Ye Li describes textile as a link between fine art and decoration. She has been looking at the work of artists such as David Hockney, Henri Matisse and Patrick Caulfield to help inspire her own approach to printed textiles and fashion clothing design, and to aid her contextualisation of 'fashion as a canvas'. Her prints are vigorous and energetic, like paintings. For the garment silhouette, she is using origami forms, and will mount printed silks onto Staflex to create folding and volume. The bursary will support the costs of materials for her final MA project

Undergraduate Student Award

Gwyneth Depport

University of Central Lancashire

 Gwyneth Depport - Voices

Conversations

In selecting the winner for the BA Bursary, the judges were impressed by the depth of original research, and the exploration of traditional processes of drawing, painting, and stitch, within a contemporary translation and innovative application of screen and digital print. The value of recyclingis explored as process within a well contextualised theme referencing social interaction. The work crosses the boundaries of art, textile, craft and design, and the combination of hand crafted and digitally produced imagery embraces a future ethos that recognises the values and importance of tradition and technology. Gwyneth has produced a unique series of conversational pieces that have a universal appeal, and would happily translate within an art or design context. She will use the bursary to enable further research, and to purchase materials and equipment for the final degree show.

Undergraduate Runners Up

Lauren Fowler - Blackberrying

London College of Fashion

Jessica Penrose - A Journey Across Continents and Centuries

University of Central Lancashire

Annice Callery - The Division of Common Land

Glasgow School of Art

2010

MA Student Award

Julie James-Turner

University of Central Lancashire

Julie James Turner

Her work offered a combination of historical research with modern interpretation through laser cutting. Her concept reusing pieces such as collars and buttons also brought a fresh approach through collage to the much discussed issue of recycling.

BA Student Award

Jennifer Sturrock

London College of Fashion

 Jennifer Sturrock

Her work showed innovative material outcomes from tightly packed lycra knits all in cool neutral colours to innovative jewellery using elastic bands.

2007

Art & Design Award

Stephanie Le Cocq

BA(Hons) Fashion/Textiles (Print)
University of Brighton

stephlecocq@hotmail.com

Stephanie Le Cocq: I dream of bears and beasts

I dream of bears and beasts

Stephanie's work is inspired by exhibits held at the National Museum of Copenhagen. Her sources include pencil drawings of grizzly monsters made by an Inuit Shaman from Greenland and other animals of Scandinavia: "realising their beauty; the eerie and the dark temperament of the culture; looking at inky barren landscapes; the feeling and colours of the Northern Lights and the wilderness". The award enabled funding of fabrics, printed materials and finishes as well as outsourcing laser cutting facilities.

History Award

Lu Zhiyong

MA Textile Conservation
Textile Conservation Centre, Winchester

Lu Zhiyong: A Chinese Liao (907-1125) Silk Sock

A Chinese Liao (907-1125) Silk Sock: Research on the Decoration, Materials and Decorative Techniques

Gold paint and patterns made of decorative pieces glued onto the fabric make the sock from the Abegg-Foundation a rare survivor. This kind of decoration was rare on ancient costume and there is no literature available. Travel to view objects in related collections and instrumental analysis including Environmental Scanning Electron Microscope, were both made possible by the award.

Science Award

Rachel Rhodes

MA Textile Conservation
Textile Conservation Centre, Winchester

Rachel Rhodes: The Identification and Conservation of Real and Simulated Pearls used as part of Textile objects

The Identification and Conservation of Real and Simulated Pearls used as part of Textile objects

Encountering pearls on Opus Anglicanum embroidery and simulated pearls on couture dresses was the inspiration for this research. Rachel used electronic equipment to discover the simplest and most effective methods of identifying pearls, her results and findings will be used to help the future conservation of precious textile objects. The award enabled expanded research and purchase of a wider variety of samples.

Business Award

Lucy Catherine Allen

BA(Hons) Fashion Retail Management
Birmigham Institute of Art & Design

 

The Aquapack

An ecologically considered water safety backpack for water sport enthusiasts, the Aquapack was designed to enhance safety and performance without restricting the wearer. Its ergonomic design offers scope for innovative future product development. The award has enabled Lucy to purchase electronic components and apply for a patent.

2006

Claire Diamond

Goldsmith's College

Claire Diamond : So near and yet so far

So near and yet so far

Laura Glasel

Huddersfield University

Laura Glassel

My Dutch and Danish Experience

Malin Svard

BA(Hons)Textile Design
Central Saint Martins

Malin Svard: My Favourite Songs

My Favourite Songs

2005

Angelica Gigica

West Dean College

Tapestry project

Caterina Radvan

London College of Fashion

Clothing for the disabled