Past Issues

Text is a full colour, illustrated journal for individual and institutional members of the Textile Society. On this page you can browse through the contents of past issues of Text. Full PDF versions are available in the Members’ Area.

Volume 47: 2020

ARTICLES
The Mad Silkman: Zika and Lida Asher, Textiles and Fashion. Dr Konstantina Hlávacková
The Debt Owed to Refugees from Nazism: Sekers and Kangol and the British Textile Industry. Dr Anna Nygard
An Interview with Canadian Artist Ehryn Torrell. Pat Frost
Obituary: Althea McNish: Textile Designer, 1924-2020. Martina D’Amato

CRITICAL WRITING OPEN AWARDS
An Embroidered Elegy: Mrs Scales’ Autograph Cloth. Lynn Setterington. First Prize
Behind Closed Doors: Silk Ribbons at the Herbert Art Gallery. Catherine Howard. Second Prize
Sustainability, Artisanal Knowledge and Interethnic Identity of Eri Silk Weavers in Meghalaya, Northeast India. Anna-Louise Meynell. Honorary mention
A Grapheme Synaesthete’s A-Z of Colour: A Textile Practitioner’s Response. Gweneifur Fereday. Honorary mention
Laura Metford Badcock’s 1908 Exhibition For The Somerset Archaeological & Natural History Society’s Golden Jubilee. Gail Griffith. Honorary mention

PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT AWARDS
A Conversation with Trees. Jennifer Shellard
Corded and Stuffed Quilting. Ruth Singer
A Filigree of Connections. Deb White
Engineering Artisan Cloth. Sam Goates

STUDENT AWARDS
Natasha Mottaghi, Olivia Howick, Nafisa Sidat, Shixiu Liu, Elizabeth Walecki, Emma Jones, Jodie Barnacle-Best

MUSEUM AWARDS
Brunel Museum, Royal Albert Memorial Museum and Art Gallery, Hat Works Museum

SPECIAL AWARD
Deryn O’Connor Bequest to UCA, Farnham

EXHIBITION REVIEWS
Kimono: From Kyoto to Catwalk. Sheila Cliffe
Joan Charnley Textile Prize & Sunflowers. Ann Gibson
Fashioned From Nature. Isabella Goggin

BOOK REVIEWS
Fringe, Frog & Tassel. Annabel Westman, Philip Wilson. Mary Schoeser
May Morris: Art and Life, New Perspectives. Lynn Hulse (ed). Mary Schoeser
The Lost Art of the Anglo-Saxon World. Alexandra Lester-Makin. Mary Schoeser
Seats of London. Andrew Martin. Pat Frost

Volume 46: 2019

ARTICLES
A Portrait of Society: Portraits of Lancaster & District Homeless Action Service Clients. James Fox
All That Glitters: The Use of Contemporary Textiles in the Interpretation of Period Costume for Theatrical Performance. Toni Bate
Hans Tisdall (Aufseeser) 1910–1997. Chris Boydell
Woven Landscapes: Tweed in Interwar Britain. Connie Karol Burke

BURSARIES AND AWARDS
Postgraduate Bursary Winner 2018. Yusra Makhdoomi
Undergraduate Bursary Winner 2018. Erin McQuarrie
Professional Development Award Joint Winner 2018. Brita Hirsch
Professional Development Award Joint Winner 2018. Stephanie Smart

REVIEWS
Alice Kettle: Thread Bearing Witness. Sarah Burgess
William Kentridge: Thick Time. Ann Gibson
Enid Marx: The Pleasures of Pattern. Alan Powers. Chris Boydell
Thread Painting and Silk Shading Embroidery. Margaret Dier. Nicola Jarvis
Textiles of the Middle East and Central Asia: The Fabric of Life. Fahmida Suleman. Brenda King

Volume 45: 2018

ARTICLES
The Yorkshire Year of The Textile: A review. Elizabeth Gaston & Jane Scott
Re-homing a Collection: the 1950s’ wardrobe of Maryse Addison. Christine Boydell
From stitches and rows to Wales and courses: How modern technology has enriched the ethos of traditional knitting on Inis Meáin. Glenda Hawkes
The Higeta Aizome Kobo: indigo dyeing in a theatre of making. Linda Brassington
The Study Collection in a Time of Austerity and Digitisation. Lee Wright & Valerie Stevenson
Souvenir Hunting. Nigel Hurlstone 

BURSARIES AND AWARDS
Postgraduate Bursary Winner 2017. Abigail Barnes
Graduate Award for Interior Textile Design at New Designers. Amarah Alexandra
Museum, Archive and Conservation Award joint winner 2017. Betty Hebditch
Museum, Archive and Conservation Award joint winner 2017. Frankie Kubicki
Museum, Archive and Conservation Award joint winner 2016. Lesley Botten
Professional Development Award joint winner 2017. Leanne Tonkin
Professional Development Award joint winner 2017. Caren Garfen 

REVIEWS
From Tapestry to Fiber Art: The Lausanne Biennials 1962-1995. Giselle Eberhard Cotton & Magali Lunet. Lesley Millar
Lucienne Day: Living Design Panel Discussion. Alison Slater
May Morris: Art & Life. Nicola Jarvis
The Needles Excellency Symposium. Mary M. Brooks
A Yorkshire Life in Pattern: Sheila Bownas. Ann Gibson
Tangled Yarns. Alison Slater
Exhibitions in Paris in 2017. Pat Frost
Balenciaga – Shaping Fashion. Sandy Black

Volume 44: 2017

ARTICLES
Furnishing Fabrics in the 1930s Suburban Home. Ellen Martin
Little African Treasures: Researching the Material Culture of Ostrich Eggshell Beads in South and East Africa. Helen Spencer
The Central European Revival of Bobbin Lace Culture – Lace and Lacemakers in the Context of Past and Present History. Anna Sznajder
Trade and Consumption of Chinese Silks in the Spanish Colonies in the New World in the Late 16th and Early 17th Centuries. Teresa Canepa
Mapping the Renaissance Body: English Attitudes to Spanish National Dress in the Sixteenth Century. Bethany Pleydell
The Stained and Bloody Cloths of Ireland. Catherine Harper

BURSARIES AND AWARDS
BA Student Bursary joint winner 2016. Antonio Castro
BA Student Bursary joint winner 2016. Katy Welsh
MA Student Bursary joint winner 2016. Anna Duthie
MA Student Bursary joint winner 2016. Lorna Jewitt
The Lucienne Day Award 2016. Charlotte Street
Museum, Archive and Conservation Award joint winner 2016. Lesley Botten
Museum, Archive and Conservation Award joint winner 2016. Rosemary Harden
Museum, Archive and Conservation Award joint winner 2016. Louise Price
Professional Development Award joint winner 2015. Bonnie Kirkwood
Professional Development Award joint winner 2015. Penny Macbeth & Clare Barber
Professional Development Award joint winner 2015. Sue Stone

BOOK REVIEWS
C. F. A. Voysey: Arts & Crafts designer. Karen Livingstone, Max Donnelly & Linda Parry. Mary Schoeser

Volume 43: 2016

ARTICLES
In Conversation with Paddy Hartley, Artist. Penny Clayden
The Human Cost of the Fashion Industry. Sam Maher
Arpillera Journeys. Karen Nickell
‘Nothing is more terrifying to me than to see Ernest Thesiger sitting under the lamplight doing this embroidery’: Ernest Thesiger (1879–1961), ‘Expert Embroiderer’. Joseph McBrinn
An Iconographical Study of 18th Century Men’s Waistcoats from the Collection of the Palais Galliera, Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris. Sarah Piettre
Who Cares? Ecclesiastical Study Day, Wellcome Collection Conference Centre, London, 27 March 2015. Beryl Patten
The Lightfoot Textile Archive. Janie Lightfoot
Shrujan Museum of Kutch Textiles. Uthra Rajgopal
Textile Society Study Tour, 19–25 May 2015 Moravia. Richard Beith
Baroque Theatre, Cesky Krumlov. Angela Thompson

BURSARIES AND AWARDS
BA Student Award joint winner 2014. Claire Hunsinger
BA Student Award joint winner 2014. Ayaka Sakurai
BA Student Award 2015. Suzanna James
MA Student Award 2015. Rozanna Walecki
The Lucienne Day Award 2015. Emily Easthope
Museum Award 2014, The Whitworth, The University of Manchester. Jennifer Harris
Conservation Award 2014 Chepstow Museum. Joanne Terry
Special Award (Audrey Archivist’s Award) joint winner 2015 Lancashire Archives. Keri Nicholson
Special Award (Audrey Archivist’s Award) joint winner 2015, The Glasgow School of Art. Helena Britt

BOOK REVIEWS
Medieval Dress and Textiles in Britain: A Multilingual Sourcebook. Louise M. Sylvester, Mark C. Chambers and Gale Owen-Crocker (eds). Alexandra Lester-Makin
Dressing the Part: Textiles as Propaganda in the Middle Ages. Kate Dimitrova and Margaret Goehring (eds). Lisa Monnas
Shetland Textiles: 800BC to the Present. Sarah Laurenson (ed). Shielagh Tacey
Embroidery Designs for Fashion and Furnishing. Moira Thunder. Jenny Adin-Christie
Printed Textiles: British and American Cottons and Linens 1700–1850. Linda Eaton. Lesley Miller
Deeper than Indigo: Tracing Thomas Machell, Forgotten Explorer. Jenny Balfour-Paul. Isabella Whitworth
Sahib, Bibi, Nawab: Baluchar Silks of Bengal, 1750–1900. Eva-Maria Rakob, Shilpa Shah and Tulsi Vatsal.  Brenda King
Shifting Sands. Kutch: a Land in Transition Archana Shah. Uthra Rajgopal
Stitching Resistance: Women, Creativity, and Fiber Arts. Marjorie Agosín (ed) Karen Nickell
Natural Colorants for Dyeing and Lake Pigments: Practical Recipes and their Historical Sources. Jo Kirby, Maarten van Bommel and Andre Verhecken (eds). Isabella Whitworth
Hidden Lives: Leek’s Extraordinary Embroiderers. Cathryn Walton. Jane Clowes
Style and Satire: Fashion in Print, 1776–1925. Catherine Flood and Sarah Grant. Jenny Tiramani 

EXHIBITION REVIEWS
The Fabric of India. Imogen Catling
Liberty in Fashion. Fiona McKelvie
Riviera Style: Resort and Swimwear Since 1900. Catherine O’Hara
Magna Carta Quilts. Ann Gibson
Indian Embroidery. Uthra Rajgopal
Savage Beauty: Alexander McQueen. Sandy Black
Fabric of Society – A Study of Protest in Thread. Sheila Winterton

Volume 42: 2015

ARTICLES
Fools in the Bayeux Tapestry. Gale Owen-Crocker
A building is more than a building: Reading the Bayeux Tapestry’s architecture. Shirley Ann Brown
The four seasons tapestries at Hatfield House: New information about the supposed date of the weaving of the tapestries. Joan Kendall
Saved for the nation: Acquisition of Jewish embroidered hangings by The Rothschild Foundation. Rachel Boak
Re-calculating colour: Thomas Wardle and India’s dyestuffs. Brenda King
Material culture of textiles in Brazil: An introduction. Luz García Neira
Embroidering the truth: As I see it. Janet Haigh
Threads of the Indus: Dialogues and empowerment through textile craft for traditional artisanal communities in Pakistan. Seher Mirza
A stitch in time: Conservation of historic textiles at the National Trust. Alison Dalby
The Clothworkers’ Centre for the Study and Conservation of Textiles and Fashion. Sheila Winterton
Missing patches: The rejection of quilting by the American women’s suffrage movement. Susan Burnett. Textile Society Critical Writing Award 2014

BURSARIES AND AWARDS
MA Student Award 2013. Emma Sheldon
BA Student Award 2013. Hannah Rampley
MA Student Award 2014. Tara Osborough
BA Student Award 2014. Nina Hartell
The Lucienne Day Award 2013. Ruth Rennison
The Lucienne Day Award 2014. Rachel Howarth
Professional Development Award 2013. Sheila Clark
Professional Development Award 2014. James Fox
Professional Development Award 2014. Brendan Jamison
Professional Development Award 2014. Shielagh Tacey
Museum Award 2013 – Bexley Heritage Trust. Kirsty Macklen
Special Award 2013. Mary M. Brooks and Dinah Eastop

BOOK REVIEWS
Medieval Clothing and Textiles, Vol. 9.  Gale R. Owen-Crocker and Robin Netherton (eds). Lisa Monnas
Interwoven Globe: The Worldwide Textile Trade, 1500–1800. Amelia Peck (ed). Mary Schoeser
White Linen Damasks I, Heraldic Motifs form the Sixteenth Century to circa 1830, 2 vols. Cornelis A. Burgers. Sanny de Zoete
Clothes of the Common People in Elizabethan and Early Stuart England, Vol. 6. Stuart Peachey (ed). Jenny Balfour-Paul
Selling Silks: A Merchant’s Sample Book 1764. Lesley E. Miller. Sue Kerry
White-Embroidered Costume Accessories: The 1790s to 1840s. Heather Toomer. Jenny Adin-Christie
Patterns of Magnificence: Tradition and Reinvention in Greek Women’s Costume. Ioanna Papantoniou (ed). Caroline Whitehead
Colouring the Nation: The Turkey Red Printed Cotton Industry In Scotland c.1840–1940.  Stana Nenadic and Sally Tuckett. Jenny Balfour-Paul
An American Style: Global Sources for New York Textile and Fashion Design 1915–1928. Ann Marguerite Tartsinis. Mary Schoeser
Lucienne Day: In the Spirit of the Age. Andrew Casey. Mary Schoeser
The Beauty of Experiment. Penny Clayden, Patricia Belford. Philip A. Sykas and Paul Turnbull
MARG Colours of Nature: Dyes from the Indian Subcontinent. Jenny Balfour-Paul (ed). Lynn Hulse

EXHIBITION REVIEWS
Georgians: Dress for Polite Society. Jenny Tiramani
Made in Mexico: The Rebozo in Art, Culture and Fashion. Lyn Broster
Henry Poole & Co. Founder of Savile Row: The Art of Bespoke Tailoring and Wool Cloth. Katina Bill
Fashion and Gardens. Uthra Rajgopal
Artist Textiles: Picasso to Warhol. Sheila Winterton
Knitwear: Chanel to Westwood and Visionary Knitwear. Angharad Thomas
Isabella Blow: Fashion Galore! Sandy Black
British Folk Art. Ann Gibson
Alke Schmidt, Tangled Yarns. Jacqui Hyman